The red-Naugahyde semicircular booths here have been filled with people looking for a stiff drink and a huge steak for decades. Thick steaks come unadorned, but there’s a house relish on the table and waiters in crisp white shirts and black aprons provide A.1. Steak Sauce or a béarnaise. Garlicky creamed spinach makes a nice side dish. Huge chunks of breaded, deep-fried pickles are a fun way to start off the meatfest. The bar and lounge area has its own menu with nibbles like sliders and a cheese plate, and the wine list offers bottles from California, France, Spain, Italy, and Australia.