Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone takes flight with The Lark, named for the Pullman train that once made overnight runs between Los Angeles and San Francisco. The past is present in the restaurant’s setting, a former fish market remodeled to include exposed brick walls, subway tile, communal tables, and private booths fashioned from church pews. As culinary conductor, executive chef Jason Paluska oversees a thoroughly modern menu that highlights local ingredients. West Coast oysters with Goleta caviar lime are popular starters to shared plates of roasted chicken with green peppercorn gastrique, depending on the season. Craft brews, wines by the glass, cocktails, and mocktails extend the artisanal spirit into the bar. Desserts by pastry chef Joey Vega include warm Meyer lemon fritters with slow-cooked blueberries and lemon thyme.